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创意与利益共生,让面料与服装畅通对话!

fabushijian

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2018.06.21

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中国纺织面料流行趋势研究与发布联盟开展2019/2020秋冬“时尚万里行”


    在央视财经频道《时尚大师》栏目中,提及面料,《VOGUE 服饰与美容》杂志主编张宇和参赛设计师都指出,当前中国服装设计有一个困扰,就是面料,即使是在北京、上海这样的城市做服装设计,选面料也是一个很大的困难。对此,业内争论纷起:难道中国的纺织面料竟如此“拖后腿”吗?


  据悉,2018年一季度我国纺织行业出口数量同比增长4%,景气指数为57.3,规模以上纺织业产能利用率高达80.7%,高于全国规模以上工业4.2个百分点;与此同时,我国纺织品服装内需市场增长加快,全国限额以上纺织品零售额同比提高3.6个百分点,且增速提升至与同期全社会消费品零售总额增速相当。这些只是近年来中国纺织行业发展的一个缩影,还有越来越多的国内外知名服装品牌如Calvin Klein、Armani、七匹狼等,都选择中国纺织面料企业作为供应商。有如此发展业绩,中国面料为何还会被认为是“拖后腿”?


  面料生产方与服装设计方沟通不畅是重要原因,不过这也正是破题而上的机遇。中国纺织面料流行趋势研究与发布联盟(简称:趋势联盟)已经在行动:4月中旬至5月下旬,趋势联盟“时尚万里行”活动针对2019/20秋冬季中国流行面料的开发环节,组织流行趋势专业研究团队实地走访联盟企业,针对企业产品开发环节传递流行趋势研究成果,涵盖纺织新材料纱线、免烫印染面料、精毛纺面料、针织牛仔等数十种面料品类,解读服装设计语言,结合市场需求,系列化指导面料产品开发,推动面料生产方与服装设计方的创意互动和价值共赢。


  把握市场节奏,前瞻时尚爆款


  赢得市场青睐的“爆款”服装需要设计与面料合力打造,然而如何才能击中消费热点?在服装设计智慧之外,纺织面料企业还要诊脉市场节奏。


  此次“时尚万里行”活动中,趋势联盟企业开发新品不仅参考自身销售数据,还从宏观层面借鉴国内外市场大数据以及细分领域供需分析。趋势研究专家与企业产品开发团队结合市场数据,从生活方式层面分析消费热点。


  例如,江阴市恒亮纺织有限公司(国家针织牛仔流行趋势研究中心)针对未来市场,产品开发从色彩搭配、穿用功能角度直指“时尚运动风潮”;山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司(国家男装精毛纺面料流行趋势研究中心)不仅做大货销售,还发现了市场的零售需求,在产品开发环节即设定一批面料产品满足零售市场;鲁泰纺织股份有限公司(国家色织面料流行趋势研究中心)则结合最新流行趋势,将国际、国内两个市场的热销产品综合考量,指导两个市场的产品设计,客观上为国内服装设计群体传递着国际服装设计的面料选择方向。


  洞悉流行趋势,玩转产品设计


  走在时尚前沿是纺织服装产业发展的特色内核。纺织面料作为服装设计的载体,从色彩、图案、组织结构、穿用功能等维度为其提供施展空间,因而问道时尚,面料或为关键。


  “时尚万里行”活动的另一重点是分享流行趋势新知,引导企业专业探索2019/20秋冬中国流行面料的关键要素。关联纺纱、织造到印染及各种后整理环节,趋势专家从色彩、图案、肌理、质地等多个维度与联盟企业互动探索创新思路。


  例如,山东联润新材料科技有限公司(国家纺织新材料纱线流行趋势研究中心)以色彩为切入口,从纱线环节即融合最新流行趋势,呼应产业链下游的时尚需求;浙江红绿蓝纺织印染有限公司(国家数码印花面料流行趋势研究中心)在流行趋势引导下尝试各种花色的无界融合;而江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司(国家女装精毛纺面料流行趋势研究中心)、浙江三德纺织服饰有限公司(国家毛针织面料流行趋势研究中心)、吴江福华织造有限公司(国家锦纶面料流行趋势研究中心)、达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司(国家丝绸面料流行趋势研究中心)、富丽达集团控股有限公司(国家再生纤维素纤维差别化面料流行趋势研究中心)和广东健业纺织集团有限公司(国家休闲针织面料流行趋势研究中心)等趋势联盟企业则立足全球秀场和服装品牌的分析结果,在新一季秋冬面料开发中创新“混纺”,融合多样原料与流行元素应对消费升级的新需求;与之相应,鲁丰织染有限公司(国家免烫印染面料流行趋势研究中心)、宁波纬一长毛绒有限公司(国家人造皮草流行趋势研究中心)、苏州橄榄枝纺织品有限公司(国家针织防寒服面料流行趋势研究中心)等趋势联盟企业则专注特色产品,进一步淬炼专业精髓优化产品设计。整体上,从视觉维度、触觉维度、功能维度,全面融合最新流行趋势开发时尚产品。


  打通供需途径,升级对接渠道


  亦如《时尚大师》栏目提及的“困难”,面料供应链严重影响着服装设计工作的顺利进行,中国流行面料就针对这个痛点深度发力。


  趋势联盟企业每一季的新品都会录入由中国纺织信息中心、国家纺织产品开发中心开发的人工智能工具“掌上趋势”,以流行趋势为逻辑呈现面料产品,并展示组织成分、生产厂商、联系方式等信息,只需在移动端就可查看数万款面料;还有全球首款人工智能时尚色彩分析系统AI Color Trend,由中国纺织信息中心和国家纺织产品开发中心基于中国应用色彩体系和中国纺织面料流行趋势研究与发布体系科学搭建,并采用深圳码隆科技有限公司的人工智能图像识别技术,以色彩为逻辑推荐面料产品。这些工具都可在Fabrics China微信公号(ID:FashionInsight-China)找到入口,既能从中查阅浙江嘉名染整有限公司(国家纬编针织面料流行趋势研究中心)的纬编针织面料,也有海宁市天一纺织有限公司(国家提花面料流行趋势研究中心)的提花面料,还有无锡恒诺纺织科技有限公司(国家功能性针织面料流行趋势研究中心)的功能性针织面料等等,凡是参与中国纺织面料流行趋势发布的产品都可一网打尽。


  如此一来,既利于服装设计群体发现更多纺织面料以激发创作灵感,也促进了纺织面料企业的产品推广,并让供需双方从中获取更多色彩搭配、服装款式等信息。此次“时尚万里行”活动就多次应用了“掌上趋势”和AI Color Trend,企业从中获取了色彩、图案、功能等多维创新灵感,有效助推了趋势联盟将中国由“世界加工厂”变为“时尚策源地”的发展愿景!

                                                                                                                                             (来源:纺织服装周刊)

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